So we all ride waves because.

A kind of cool way to look at wave riding is this... If life is a journey not a destination, then riding a wave epitomises this fairly accurately. You're not really going any place or definite destination, but you get there in a very fucking cool fashion. Getting there is an experience which can take you to both ends of the emotional spectrum, and everything in between, your conscious mind often is left in suspension. Perhaps this is where the fun and joy lies... pure presence and self expression. Other ways of finding this mental clarity are taught in yoga studios, meditation centres, but with a wave you have the added bonus of it simply happening, like effortless effort. So what's the point of the journey? Perhaps to perpetuate good feelings both in yourself, and quite possibly in the person running down along the beach, or family sitting on the point having a picnic.

A good friend (and since proven much wiser than I) pointed out something along these lines a while ago while we discussed whether surfing did anything for anyone, other than be a lot of fun for the surfer him or herself. His view was that basically anything that puts a person into a state of joy and inspiration, perpetuates this out into the atmosphere, and is therefore doing nothing BUT good, for everyone, as it is spreading joy and happiness. If nothing but these feelings were released from everyone on the planet, then any ill or unharmonious conditions must necessarily and literally desist. This is true on a scientific level because...

This is true on a scientific level because there is a universal law that states like attracts like. So that means if you're having only (or even mostly) harmonious thoughts and feelings, then your both internal and external conditions must therefore follow suit. The more good, happy feelings you have in the place of any other feelings, leads to more of the good, happy conditions inside and around yourself. Thoughts and feelings have a measurable frequency- this is where the like attracts like part comes into play. This frequency affects right down to the cells that make up your body in fact. If they perceive happy conditions, they will express themselves in the happiest/most harmonious possible way.

This ties into movement and health because the more freely you can move and express yourself while riding a wave, the better you feel. Hope the stuff on here makes you feel good.