As a whole it seems a highly attractive part of riding waves is endless possibility. The only ongoing factor is an ever changing landscape. An individual perspective of moving energy resulting in a unique personal self expression in that particular moment. Mine is probably completely different from yours. Who cares. Surf companies might.. It probably makes us harder to cater for in relation to the list of products they would like to sell. On the bright side it must be easier for them to re-create their image for an ever evolving taste.. If they fall out of sync a new name, a new image, a new anything can be re-created to harmoniously rejoin themselves with our current perspective on something which seems to have a lifestyle pull like few other past times. It's both amazing and refreshing to ponder the many different takes on riding waves, and the culture surrounding that.
Maybe, though, sometimes to keep it fresh an end in mind is actually neccesary. At least helpful. The ever changing landscape might, at times, leave you feeling lost in the sea. Literally or metaphorically- the number of board designs, wave riding styles is endless. The list of 'this is whats best for your surfing' options is even more extensive. Well...Fuck that. Most likely surfing became a part of your existence- daily, when you can or when ever- because it felt good, or gave you a sense of joy, peace or flow. So maybe the grounding factor in knowing what you would like to achieve in 3 months, next surf, a year, can help bring the point back to also questioning what will enhance the experience? Or is the outcome only chosen because one was meant to choose it? Pretty fast way to find out, try it! Feel happy and joyful? Could be a good option. Feel a bit of a lack in motivation? Maybe a different tack would be better.
After around two or three years of managing (at the most), perhaps one surf in 3 days and spending the post-surf two of those three days in pain through the hip- causing walking and getting in and out of the car make me feel triple my age (Funnily enough supreme wisdom did not immediately follow), I experienced a brief hiatus from wanting to take part at all in the sport. A major source of fun, connection to the earth/ mother nature and self expression lost it's appeal. After getting past the phase of irritation at an injury which seemed a little uncalled for considering my age and history of surfing, sport, health and movement, I took a closer look in the ol' mirror and quickly discovered that in actual fact I'd made a far too small and inconsistent attempt to get something I love back on track. After a few mainstream healing options were trialled and quickly found to make minimal progress, I stopped bothering to look further for new options.
The resulting disconnection from surfing ultimately lead ultimately to question the motives for taking part at all, and eventually finding that, at that point, the ultimate desire was to be able to ride a wave, freely. Not just free from pain, but free from expectations of how it should be done (my own and other peoples). Free to be in that moment completely. The constant pressure on myself had led to a negative manifestation physically.. Literally trying to force a certain kind of surfing lead to an injury. The oh-so-missed feeling of excitement to surf came back ten-fold with this insight, and the goal of surfing without hindrance on a trip to bali cemented itself. Free to do it how and when I pleased. This was true motivation, something that brought excitement and energy every time it came to mind. Using the knowledge base of the body I have, combined with asking questions of others who I knew had (and were their own proof of), a real knowledge of the body, the basic technique principles shared on this page were used to success. Surfing at least 4 hours a day, the hip never felt less then around 80% of its full structural strength- amazing to feel as at times previously after one surf placed it at 50%.
Finding true motivation in the form a goal that resonated with myself, not just a brief moment of desire but a true and constant burning, produced all the energy in the world to look, eventually finding something that worked and helped get bring about my wanted outcome. The things that give a lift just when they come to mind, make you feel light or excited. Those might be the things, given full attention, that lead to learning, flow, connection and fun.
